Category: Blog Posts

Grave Range | Snow Bowl | Sheep | Mit Tower | Alp Turah | University

Grave Range Growler

I borrowed my partners car to get my bike and self to the start. Destination Blue Mountain Recreation Area parking lot. It was 5:45 AM when I rolled in. Disappointment settled in seeing that no one was around. I mean usually no one in their right mind would be out there at 6 in the morning. But today Norman and I planned to start the RMVQ together. And if he was a no-show, I understood. Or anyone for that matter. The RMVQ itself is an insane idea.  But to me it is my yearly quest to reconnect one last time with the area before it gets covered with snow.  As I Steeped out of the car I saw some headlights coming at me.

“Hi Norman”, my spirits set back to optimal optimism. I felt I needed company for this year’s installment. I did not want to do it. Felt that I could not do it. But was just there to see if my new lifestyle change would allow me to enjoy 24 hours of just plain riding the toughest loop on the planet.

I did not hear any response …, “Norman?”

As he turned the light to the side it was not Norman at all. It was Aaron. It was like we stepped back in time to a year ago while riding the Fitzy Barn. Specifically just topping out on Bannock Pass during the night.

Then a car pulled in and out stepped Norman. And then another car … what the heck? At 6 in the morning Norman, Aaron, and I headed up Blue Mountain. There were instances of being slightly off course. I enjoyed slivers of time when I actually rode with my adventure partners but we all had our own pace. Norman seemed to be the most cautious, which comes with being a veteran. Aaron had all the energy and found himself off the front. Me I was sticking to 133 beats per minute.

The sun came out in a glorious display of color and warmth.  When we left the cars it was in the 20s and frost covered our bikes. Then when we all crested the mountain and pulled up to the fire tower we basked in the warming rays.  The day was certainly underway. Arron and I bombed off the top of Blue mountain first.

I saw Aaron maybe twice after that.  Then Norman happened by on top of the first “Bastard”, once named “Bitch” until questioned by “someone” on what that meant. The three bastards are three really challenging hill climbs that usually include licking the handlebar for nutrition.

Norman and I jockeyed back and forth until the big downhill into Dry Gulch. I use downhills to gain distance lost due to insane slowness on the climbs. At the bottom … Ed, Laurie, and Aaron. We all gathered at the Kona Bridge and got ready for our assault on the Snow Bowl A Frame. A band of 3 turns into a band of 5. I truly love it when the RMVQ brings us together.

RMVQ Main Page  | History GC

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Stats

1. Bill Martin – 157.59 miles in 36:26:23 [Blue Mountain to Maurice and South]
2. Aaron Baldwin – 72+ miles in 10:45 [Blue Mountain to Rattlesnake] *Started at home
3. Norman Singley – 72 miles in 11:ish [Blue Mountain to Rattlesnake]
4. Ed Stalling – 40+ miles in 7:ish [Kona Bridge to Snow Bowl AFrame then home] *Started at home
5. Laurie Stalling – 40+ miles in 7:ish [Kona Bridge to Rattlesnake] *Started at home
6. Ted Toporkov – 31.7 miles in 4:39[Rattlesnake and back] *Mechanical
7. Julie Huck – 4ish miles [Treasure Trail to Finish] *Rode from home
8. Mo Mislivets – 4ish miles [Rattlesnake loop and MoZ finish]

Special thanks to everyone who came out to the halfway party, cooked great grub,  and hula hooped with us. Blog you later …o/o

Hey, everyone! Yesterday, I embarked on the 2013 RMVQ, and it’s been quite the adventure so far. You can follow my updates as I “tweet” along. And while you’re waiting for the next update, be sure to check out my documentary on YouTube.

Today, I’m hoping to finish up and then head to the Uptown Diner for breakfast, as per tradition. The RMVQ spans a length of 153 – 161 miles, with a climbing range of 20,000 – 36,000 vet feet. If you want to see some photos, head over to RMVQ Photos.

For detailed maps and routes, you can check out the Google Map and the Strava Map. And if you’re curious about the RMVQ’s history and the incredible spirit behind it, don’t miss out on the RMVQ page.

This quest is not just a race; it’s a challenge to push your limits and discover your true potential. So, join me as I embark on this unforgettable adventure!

Happy trails!

Citations:
[1] https://twitter.com/search?q=%23RMVQ
[2] https://williammartin.com/rmvq
[3] https://williammartin.com/mountain-biking/2013-rmvq
[4] https://williammartin.com/mountain-biking/the-rmvq
[5] https://www.adventurecycling.org/resources/blog/one-big-circle-the-first-90-degrees/

Hey, everyone! I’ve just kicked off the 2013 RMVQ and it’s going to be an epic journey. You can follow my updates as I “tweet” along. And while you’re waiting for the next update, be sure to check out my documentary on YouTube.

Today, I’ll be riding with friends to the halfway point, where we’re having a BBQ party. Then it’s onward and upward! The RMVQ spans a length of 153 – 161 miles, with a climbing range of 20,000 – 36,000 vet feet. If you want to see some photos, head over to RMVQ Photos.

For detailed maps and routes, you can check out the Google Map and the Strava Map. And if you’re curious about the RMVQ’s history and the incredible spirit behind it, don’t miss out on the RMVQ page.

This quest is not just a race, it’s a challenge to push your limits and discover your true potential. So, join me as I embark on this unforgettable adventure!

Happy trails!

Citations:
[1] https://twitter.com/search?q=%23RMVQ
[2] https://williammartin.com/mountain-biking/2013-rmvq
[3] https://williammartin.com/mountain-biking/the-rmvq
[4] https://williammartin.com/rmvq
[5] https://maps.google.com/maps/ms?msid=218095446067961655230.0004cbba23b46d7316522

I am in Missoula preparing for the RMVQ. This marks the end of a biking season with one huge ride around Missoula. You know, a blow out pedal fest. As we drove here last night I reflected on this summers travels. And I have to say … it was a good year. Starting tomorrow morning … the adventure continues.

This has been a great summer visiting “The Front”. Ever since our first ride I have fallen in love with the place. The morning outings like the Blacktail Trail set in memory as top rides. Some outings have included a lot of climbing like Norwegian Gulch. And after each weekend it was hard to leave. But then we would be back at it again the following week. The hardest part was all the traveling but when you are meeting up with your adventure partner it makes it all worthwhile. That and all the scenery … like waterfalls. Even when the weather turned to rain we had a blast. But this weekend we had perfect weather. So we headed to the Jones Creek NRT.

I didn’t expect much. I had passed by the drainage on my morning ride and it looked barren and dry. But from the moment we placed our treads on the single-track I was grinning from ear to ear. The trail was in great shape unlike many of the horse damaged ones out here.

At the end of the trail we were deep into a bowl of reefs and ridges. The beauty immense although a little dry and desolate. Standing on top of a high point we took a breath of the cool mountain air. We would miss this place. The last ride a complete success.

I totally ripped the downhill. One of the funnest rides of our summer. Back on the road I readied myself for a long wait until my partner could navigate back down. To my uprise she was right there. And a smile bigger then mine. We both totally ripped it.

Goodbye front … we will be back.

Lately I have pushed the limits of morning coffee. Not a new brew but what I believe possible to do while drinking my morning coffee. Just like in the Crazy Mountains when I “walk” up to around 10,000 feet while drinking some of my brew. The one hand rule so to speak.

This morning I had to disregard the one hand rule because I decided to go on a mountain bike spin. With my coffee tucked away in a frame bag. I just pull out my insulated mug, pop the top, and sip every now and then.

It had been a while between sips when I realized I was in deep. I went off the road to a piece of single track which I thought would dump back out on the road just over Teton Pass. Right through a canyon. Which swallowed me up until I was hiking the bike along and up cliffs. I kept thinking it would get better and it seemed to just be getting worse.

I must have forged the creek like 20 times and just when things started to open back up my feet froze. So bad that I could not feel them. Walking was impossible so I stumbled like a drunk. Finally I saw a cabin on the horizon and made a beeline to it.

I envisioned busting through the door and collapsing. I would wake up in the hospital with camera crews waiting to interview me. The first mountain biker ever to make it through Teton Canyon alive. I was going to be a hero. But that never happened, no. Instead I biked over the pass and back to camp. My partner was waiting for the adventure story. At least I would be famous to one person.

RMVQ Main Page  | History GC  

So far after a survey it looks like no one is up for the full RMVQ challenge. So I guess I will go for the bike-pack (fully supported) record that we set last year, 4 days 9 hours and 47 minutes. I freely admit I am striving for an easy record but the solo unsupported challenge will keep me honest. Others are planning a section and I hope to see you out there. Julie Huck is organizing the annual BBQ at the Rattlesnake parking lot. Contact her for details. My schedule is simple. I start at 6(ish) Saturday October 5th, 2013. I can be tracked at https://twitter.com/boneshakerbike, which will also be posted on the blog as a live stream. I want to finish in 24 hours … as always … [more]

Past RMVQ : 2008 | 2009  | 2010  | 2011 | 2012 | 2013

Color, dream, reality, space …
Closing in on me, pushing, squeezing …
Comforting, soothing, snuggling …
Wanting to struggle free, climb, run, bike …
Letting it all soak in, filtering, release …
Heal, mend, strengthen …
Then finally freedom.

It was my 4th visit to the front. With anticipation of it being my last for the season I agreed to travel even further. Friday evening after work I did the usual trek from Bozeman to the other end of the state. I arrived to the Wind Mountain Campground in the shadows of prominent cliffs and peaks. As usual the Front does not disappoint. My partner flagging me down to an awaiting and nicely set up camping spot. It was nice to see her again.

The next day was wide open. We never discussed what we would do that day. As I mulled about the camp during “Bill Time” I began to come down from the work week stress buzz. And by the time she woke up and joined me I was fully relaxed.

“Lets go for a ride”, she announced. Music to my ears. We mounted up and took off.

After much pedaling and poking around to see which trails were open to biking we came to a perfect little waterfall. To get there we encountered some gravel roads, snakes, eagles, a partly eaten carcass dragged behind a bush, and Pine Butte. Which I may add took some time to grasp. What a huge rock. The waterfall marked the turn around point.

Turning around is hard for me. So I have to trick myself by promising food or a reward for succumbing to surrender. I mean to turn around is to surrender isn’t it? As we re-approached Pine Butte it looked angry. As if to say, “go back you trader … quitter”.

As we crossed the Teton River it spoke a different language. The setting sun glistening on the ribbon of water. It was getting darker and the river whispered, “Better go home … it can get quite scary out here”.

OK, rivers can not speak. But I had just read a sign that basically stated that grizzly bears ruled this land.

I stopped to take a photo of a beaver pond that was so crystal clear it looked like I was staring out a window into another world. Just then I heard the bushes move. I jumped back and into the middle of the road.

Reason for my sketch was not that the river spoke of scary things. No. It was actually all the signage around. And for good reason. This was prime grizzly bear habitat. And the signs were doing more than the usual warnings. They actually had step by step instructions on what to do. I tried to remember what I read but drew a blank.

My partner rolled up.

“What is it?”

“Not sure … let’s get back to camp”

The end

All the hardship was worth it and even the last few climbs back to the car was no big deal. Cruising through open fields and down fast single-track smoothed over a trip that started out with impossible difficulties. The trip was now ending with sweet effortless biking and some of the best memories possible.

As I waited for my partner to take a dash at a deep stream crossing I couldn’t help but to think of the future in relation to the past. My adventure to Bozeman and a relationship that started out with some difficulties. Even though I have friends that endured the same for me it was hard to keep the faith. And now the future is right around the corner. Well around a corner and up a hill.

And just like our last hiking adventure; brought on by a persistent faith of more adventure. My partner insisting to stay one more night and climb to an unknown lake. She has led me to keep the faith in my life with acts like these. Many times hanging in there has always reaped its rewards.

The sun likes to set just as we finish up things. Always the last ones to leave any parking lot. Tonight was no exception. We would be driving home late … again. And as always life tries to comfort us with beautiful views.

The trip was, well, some biking. A lot of pushing. And climbing. Kind of crazy if you think about it. But I like crazy. Crazy is good. Right?

And the adventure continues, more to come. Mostly it looks like snow now. But now some hard parts behind us and the anticipation of even greater challenges ahead. We travel home to rest up for the next chapter.

Last best effort

That night was terrifying. I was kind of uneasy that we pitched a tent way off the trail. But we needed to camp out. Riding out to the car at the trailhead was not going to happen. My partner suggested we go up this one trail and we discovered this cute little meadow adjoining a scree slope. It was an obvious animal run-way. Moose poop everywhere and the largest pile of grizzly scat I have ever seen two feet from the tent door.

I went to sleep OK because it started to rain and the sounds on the tent walls lulled me into dreamland. Then it stopped raining. Which meant we could hear things. Things like large animals moving about the meadow. So in all I only slept when it was raining. And did I mention that we didn’t have any bear spray.

I was under the impression that there were no grizzlies in the Crazies. A friend did some research and told me that about ten years ago. And the signs, maybe the sounds, that we experienced may have been just a large black bear. But at 2 in the morning you prepare for the worst. I was ready for a grizzly to come in for breakfast of cyclist and then finish off with a desert of pine bark seeds. Which were prevalent in the scat.

But we did make it through to the next day. Thankfully! Right? At breakfast we felt so relieved we came up with a scheme to hike to Smeller Lake.

We expected a climb because going to Rock Lake was hell and it was shy of 9,000 feet. Smeller Lake was right at or above 9,000 feet. So an uphill struggle was anticipated. The best thing, and I hate to admit it, is that we ditched the bikes.

Yep! Completely went on a hiking effort. Yea, I know. Not part of a bike packing adventure. But up here bikes seemed to be hindersome at best.

We had a fabulous climb that took us to wide open meadows with skyscraper peaks all around.

And at the end of the meadows were waterfalls. Once we spotted some mountain goats and nestled into some high grass to watch. And we saw some impressive white bark pine ecosystem activity. Nutcrackers were everywhere and bear sign abundant.

Smeller lake was impressive. It had a different feel then Rock Lake, which we left the day before. On the South side was this massive snow field. It was mostly covered in scree but dripping sounds and constant falling rock gave us warning not to approach.

To the North was Iddings Peak and the ridge separating us from Crazy lake. Just a beautiful sight.

To the East was deposits of scree, differing in color. And the ridge textured like an alien space ship. At least what I saw in the latest blockbuster.

This place had zen while the day before we had ruin and emptiness. It became clear that if it were not for my partner suggesting this side trip we would be home wondering what to do. I had wanted to cut the trip off early and just go home. But instead she talked me into something off “the plan”.

There is always a place to explore. There is always another perspective. Always another view. Another season. This is why I leave the house. I looked at the screen on my camera and could see new images at every focal length.

“Well we are out of food, out of time, and really need to get back to our bikes pretty soon”, she said.

I nodded and with that turned to head back down.

Today will be the last day of our trip. But when we get to our bikes, another adventure awaited. Another perspective on a trail already traveled. This time back out. Back to our lives outside of the Crazies.

“We need to re-do this one” … it was better than “I will never do this again”.

Leaving

I was starting to make piles around camp. This is what I do at home. I make piles. Organized piles. When stuff gets organized I can then pack or put away the mess. My partner heard me and stumbled out of the tent.

“You making piles?”

“Yep!”

“I’ll make breakfast and join you.”

I flipped the tent over and started to take it apart. It was extraction day. Try to leave and if things get out of hand call in the national guard to extract us. Right? I joined my partner on a rock to plan our get-away.

It was simple. Walk the bikes down the valley. Or maybe try. I attempted to ride a couple of times with not so good outcomes. But the decent was not all that bad. We did have the great views.

Since I have legs like a giant I can cover more ground then my partner’s. This gave me time to stop for photos of some things that we missed coming up two days before.

But then again it was hard only because the bikes seemed awkward in this environment. I think hand gliders would be better suited.

My thoughts kept going back to when we arrived. When she walked passed me and said “never again”.

Morning Coffee

I was up but not before the sun this morning. I glanced out the tent door and there was a big peak beckoning me.

“No thanks buddy … I dislike heights and bill time is about to expire.”

I made myself a bulletproof coffee the best I could being that I was out in the middle of nowhere. And then set out for a little walk about. I decided to go above the tent to have the ability detect my partner’s activity. Not in a creepy way but so she didn’t think I was missing. I wanted to shout and wave upon movement detection. Which meant I was not going far. Just up … a little. To do some reflecting.

About 9 AM it was time to head back to the tent to partake in coffee version 2.0. And good thing. The “one hand holding the coffee mug” rule had just been broken. I had wedged the cup into a crack so I could take a photo straight up. End of climb!

I don’t know how these thing happen and at first I felt intimidated by my position clinging to a rock. But as I descended I found it easy going. The one hand rule really works. But was it the time or the rule that kept me out of harms way this time? Or was it the fact I am afraid of heights. I shuttered to think of falling out here. The rocks were like shattered glass. Very rugged, much more then I.

I descended pretty quickly. Back to solid footing. I am more comfortable on bedrock. Land or air …. I like dirt the best.

When I got close enough to see camp it appeared there was no movement yet. Ah, my walk about undetected. As if I was still sitting there by the fire circle having my coffee. From here I imagined myself down there. A perspective that was pretty moving. Gosh, how small we are.

Bored

As I sat in camp eating a modest lunch I stared at a rock. So colorful and interesting. I grabbed another spoonful of almond butter. It was tasting quite yummy and really the only sweet substance I will have eaten for this trip.

Some people need more. Out of their food I mean. Me, I don’t think of food any more. I have my animal fats, meat, and nuts when I think of it, usually every 8 to 12 hours. But being around camp I grew quite bored. This “day off” wasn’t stacking up as exciting. And I was turning to our sparse rations for “entertainment”.

I jumped up to announce that I was going to walk around the lake. I turned and there was my partner all geared up and looking for adventure. “Let’s walk round the lake”, she announced with a smile.

And we were off. We picked our way around the Iddings Peak side stopping for the occasional cool plant or shroom.

I had lots of down time as well. My partner is still a carb burner so she must stop for snacks and lunch. I fidget and try to keep busy. Eating just seems like a waste of time. Today I feel asleep at “lunch”. Napping in the sun with my back pack under my head.

When I awoke she was gone. Off discovering the latest plant, tree, or rock I supposed. I scrambled to a high point and looked around. I saw lots of beauty but could not see my partner. Gosh, how long was I sleeping for. I looked at my watch … only 10 minutes.

I sat down to stare at the massive Iddings Peak. So tall it towered above me more massive than any building in New York City. And believe me I have been there. No this was more massive. Then something moved. In the boulders high in a scree slope. Something red. It was my partner. She was so dwarfed that I shuttered. It looked as though she could be swallowed up so easily.

We, as humans, are so small in the overall scheme of things. Given the enormity around us we are really all alone.  There is a galaxy between us and our fellow human. Sure we group up as to not seem so small. But alone out here in the Crazies it becomes really clear that we are so alone. So small.

I sat down and waited. Drank some water. And thought some more. Soon she came back from her sabbatical and we were close enough that space seemed smaller again.

“So what about tomorrow”, I asked.

“I havent thought about it. There is no place we can really go but I am wanting to move on.”, she stopped to ponder something.

“HEY LOOK … myrtleberrys!”