Boneshakerbike

Author: Bill

  • Trans Zion part 5

    Trans Zion part 5

    The Connector

    http://obits.reviewjournal.com/obituaries/lvrj/obituary.aspx?n=corey-buxton&pid=144325753

    We stood there reading the plaque. The prior morning our shuttle driver Zach told us of a boy scout who died crossing Hop Valley. Erie and creepy is the feeling I felt. To be standing in a spot where a immense struggle came to an end. Tragic. We wonder what little overlooked details led to this person’s death.

    She and I
    Red Rock
    Climbing out of Hop Valley

    It was like a portal. That spot, where it all ended for someone. Our journey was only a day and a half old but really, it was just beginning. And crossing over that portal it was a new journey. One that switched to personal wonder to the enjoyment of just being able to be there. And to be there with someone special.

    Vodoo

    And just like a portal the tunnel of trees opened up into the Lower Kolob Plateau. A total change of scenery. There were knolls, one named Firepit just to the left and Spendlove beyond that. We figured we were close to our water drop off of Kolob Reservoir Road. After what seemed like a eternity crossing a sage covered and extremely sandy valley we arrive at our stashed water.

    Zion Grassland

    After a hour break in which my partner proceeded to have lunch and I just snacked on water and one nibble from a pemican bar (Buffalo meat and cranberries) it was time to head down the Connector Trail. A trail from the Hop Valley trailhead to the Wildcat Canyon Trail. This section turned out to be much like a serengeti type of landscape. Totally beautiful and wide open. As the sun started to bring out the color in the distant cliffs I realized our daylight was dwindling. And we still had some distance to cover.

    Layers

    What made matters worse is that it made everything so beautiful that my camera was in overdrive. At some point you have to put the damn thing away and hike. I did have a slight advantage with my fitness. I could run ahead and gain enough time on my partner that it gave me time to take some pictures.

    Layered

    It was the sun that determined the end of my photo-taking-addict behavior. It left. Just dropped out of the sky. And just like that it was getting cold and dark. I snapped off one last shot and looked around for my partner. Then I started hearing coyotes.At first from a distance and then it seemed as though the were closing in on us. And my partner.

    Rough Traverse

    She was back there all alone and it sounded like the barking was right upon her. I sprinted back on the trail. I discovered her about a mile back starring into the hillside. She then looked back at me eyes wide.

    “Are you OK”, I was trying to catch my breath.

    “Yea … does the barking seem to be getting closer”

    And with that the barking stopped. We were close to Wildcat Canyon and our next campsite. We had crossed the portal from Hop Valley and crossed the Connector Trail. A perfect segway to tomorrows rim hike.

  • Trans Zion part 4

    Trans Zion part 4

    Hop Valley

    A Round Zion

    I really didn’t pay much attention to our route. After all my partner set the entire thing up. I admit now that it was selfish of me to not take a more pro-active part in the planning. But with stresses at work and such I really did not have the capacity.

    Pack

    But this morning all of the job stresses had melted away and I was now more involved in our route.

    “Whats up for today”, I asked as we tore down camp.

    “Hop Valley”

    “Hope Valley, that is a weird name … I wonder why they call it Hop Valley”

    “I don’t know”

    Travel

    Much of the morning we climbed out of the La Verkin Creek drainage. The landscape reminded me of where I grew up, the Bull Mountains in Roundup. As we started to break out into a cliff lined valley that all changed. Soon I stood on the edge of what looked like a minature Morocco Desert.

    Desert Cliffs
    Mo “Hop”ing La Verkin Creek
    Red Cliff

    The only signs of life were a set of footprints crossing the miniature stretch of sand. In in those tracks other tracks made by a spider of some kind.

    Dune

    Hop Valley is pretty cool. A strip of sand with a small river or creek running through in the shadows of the surrounding cliffs. It felt desolate, lonely, and weird. Like we were walking into a trap. And there was no escape due to towering sandstone cliffs above us. The entire hike up the valley was surreal but at the same time the coolest walk ever.

    La Verkin Creek

    The funny thing about this section of Zion is that it is aptly named. Hop Valley as in hopping the creek every half mile or so. And many times it took a sequence of dance like steps and numerous “hops” to get across the unbelievably shallow but wide Hop Creek. “Hop Creek” … again, am I right?

    Hop Valley Shade Tree

    “I wonder if they named this Hop Creek Valley because of the creek or because we have to hop our way through it”, I broke out of a long silent period.

    “To bad we don’t have any “fermented hopps”, she giggled.

    Me crossing Hop Valley

    Nearing the end of the valley we were tired of hopping and were ready for something new. But I have to say, that was the most memorable valley I have ever hiked through. And I was glad that I did not know our route intimately. I liked surprises. Like the valley we were now leaving. Adventure is cool that way.

  • Trans Zion part 3

    Trans Zion part 3

    Kolob Arch

    Evening Sun on Cliffs

    As we hiked up an unknown creek the sun was hitting the walls of the canyon with such power it seemed as though they were on fire.

    Sunset

    As I stumbled around to get a photo my adventure partner was picking her way up the drainage. I couldn’t believe what I was seeing in the preview screen of my camera. So much color.

    Walking Kolob Canyon

    My partner was not interested and insisted I pick up the pace. “Common … you’re going to miss it”

    “Miss what”

    “Kolob Arch”

    Cairn

    So I put my camera into my pack and scampered after her. Good thing for adventure partners. They keep you on task.

    The canyon grew darker and we were now walking up a creek bed after losing the unofficial trail. I resisted the urge to stop for photos. I wanted to see this arch.

    Kolob Arches

    And then it came into view. Finally I could pull out my camera to take some photos. As I scampered up a tree to get a better view.

    Kolob Arch

    I snapped off a half million shots hoping that one would be clear enough. The low light of nightfall meant I had to use some uncanny techniques to steady the camera.

    Hiking Out of Kolob Canyon

    Then we had to scamper out of the canyon before it got too dark. The sky was still a baby blue so I assumed we had plenty of time. Once again the adventure partner top the rescue. I needed to stay on task. We had supper to fix back at camp.

    Moon over Kolob

    As we exited Kolob Canyon I spotted the moon over one of the cliffs. And I thought to myself what a perfect end to a perfect day of adventure.

  • Trans Zion part 2

    Trans Zion part 2

    Down La Verkin

    Reach

    Now with morning coffee behind me the world seemed a little more doable. Exploring a new land, a new trail, a new adventure.  As we dropped down and started following La Verkin Creek my eyes gazed around at the towering cliffs and blue skies. It seemed as though the land itself was worshiping the sun. Everything reached skyward.

    Path

    Under my feet was softness and uncertainty. The soft red sand which was winding its way through the fall colors of Zion seemed warm and welcoming. The footing at times uncertain, was like a sandbox with endless depth.

    Mo and I

    My adventure partner looked as though she was immersed in the landscape the same as I. As everything seemed foreign and new our partnership was warm and comfortable. And it was nice to see her enjoying our surroundings. Maybe more than I was.

    Verkin Creek

    The  creek flowed through the towering cliffs with such grace and beauty.  Luscious curves and robust colors. We hiked almost the entire day and never stopped to eat or take a break. Zion had engulfed us. Swallowed us whole.

    Cliff

    Towards the end of the day, however, we grew hungry and tired. And we started to watch the GPS. Creeping closer to one of our reserved camping sites. I glanced up to the cliffs for signs that the day was coming to a close.

    Edge

    But the signs were just not there. Just more wondrous landscape. Wow, to get to a campsite before the sun set. How remarkable was This?

    Verkin Creek

    Soon we were a mile away from our stopping point. The excitement of camping our first night in Zion numbed the pain from carrying a heavy pack for the first time in 5 years. The achy feet disappeared too.

    Cactus

    And then we found it. A nice little spot near the creek. We promptly found a spot and started to put up “camp”. My thoughts drifted to dinner and falling asleep blissfully in the tent.

    Evening Sun on Cliffs

    “So let’s go on an adventure, what do you think?”, my partner suggested. She was right, we had plenty of day left. “We could go see Kolob Arch”

  • Trans Zion part 1

    Trans Zion part 1

    Morning Coffee

    Morning Coffee

    The entire morning was a blur. Getting up pre sunrise is one thing, I do it all the time. And slipping out of my sleeping bag when it is 10 degrees outside is another, but I do that usually without incident too. But to skip my bulletproof morning coffee … now that is really hard to do. We had to be at Zion Adventure Company at 6 am and then shuttled to our water drops before being abandoned at Lee Pass. But it was all good now. We promptly hiked down the trail a mile and set up the jetboil to make some morning brew.  Ahhh.

    Spore Circle

    Then it was down the trail to La Verkin Creek. Along the way I found interesting natural features. And not the towering cliffs and beautiful colors, all beautiful indeed. But the rocks and cool dirt … ahhh sand, it was all so cool.

    Surface

    This land felt so foreign and we had to go so far before we emerged. It was a funny feeling. From the time the van pulled away I felt this creepy abandon feeling. And now I was looking around at all this foreign terra.

    Frozen leaf

    And to be in the desert and experience frozen creeks was weird too. Maybe I didn’t wake up yet after all. Maybe I was still snuggled in my sleeping bag back at the “public” campground. With a nice little coffee shop down the street.

    Stained

    I wondered behind my partner and at times struggling to get foothold in the sand. I was definitely out of my comfort zone. But that is a good thing. To be uncomfortable is what I live for. To be comfortable is boring. Mundane.

  • Pre Trans Zion

    Pre Trans Zion

    Evening Sun
    Fall in Zion

    The plan is Trans Zion. Lucky for me my partner volunteered to set the entire thing up. Shuttles, timeline, camping spots, permits, and the like. But I am not lucky because all this brutal footwork, instead extremely thankful. Lucky because she planned a “down day” between my 24 hour race and the Trans Zion.

    Biking Zion
    Zion from a bike

    After a morning of double checking our plans and putting everything in order we decided to ride our bikes up the park’s main valley.  We left the campground and rode for a little while up the Parus Trail,  a paved bike trail.

    Parus trail crosses the Virgin River
    Parus trail crosses the Virgin River

    The cool feature of the Parus Trail is that it snakes and crosses the Virgin River many times affording us many photo ops of the fall scenery. We pretty much had this trail to ourselves since it was off-season and the roads were open for cars.  I mean if you can drive why walk?  Right?

    Bikes in Zion
    Bikes in Zion

    The ride up the paved road named Zion Canyon Scenic Drive was pretty sketch. Not because of severe neck strain to see all the sights. No, it was the motorists. Normally it is park buses only allowed on the scenic drive. But in the winter they rule and just assume they own the road. Lots of frustrated motorists honked and whizzed by angry at us for having the gull to ride our bikes. But soon we were at the end and locked our bikes at the Riverside Walk trail.

    The very end of our progress
    Hiking up the Virgin

    The riverside walk trail just extends the trip up the valley floor by a mile or two.  Along the way there are many people feeding squirrels, even with the no squirrel feeding signs, and others looking like professional photographers. How could there be this many photographers in the world? I kept my camera in my pocket for the most part.

    A pathway along the canyon walls
    A pathway along the canyon walls

    Occasionally I spotted a scene so delicious I had to pull my camera out and expose my “touristy” nature. And there was no way I would be mistaken for a professional photographer because my camera came out of my pocket. I stood there for 20 minutes to wait for a moment when no people were in the scene. Snap!

    Mo and I
    Mo and I

    We even did a “couples” photo in which it looks like I have taken my partner hostage.  Maybe I did. It was the end of our hike and I felt disappointed. I thought the trail would have gone deeper into the canyon. I mean it was just getting good.  Darn.

    The very end of our trek
    The very end of our trek

    I mean it just ends … just like that. We watched cold people in wetsuits come shivering out of the canyon. I looked around the corner. It called my name. I sure which I could have kept going.  It was time to get back and pack  for Trans Zion. I just ignored the urge and went back from where I came. The land of the paved.

  • 2013 Frog Hollow Report

    2013 Frog Hollow Report

    Fresh off Trans Zion I feel the need to reflect on a little 24 hour race we did before that. That is if you call a 60 plus deep field of solos tiny. A couple of weeks ago my partner and I attended the 25 hours of Frog Hollow. Thanks Cimarron! And because of a few key decisions in the race our hiking adventure was awesome. But more on the Trans Zion in a later post.

    I did not know Jill had crashed and was trying to get her bleeding leg to the start finish area. In fact eager laps to catch friends for a hug and excited talk about how we were doing faded with the cold air that was now chilling my body. I couldn’t keep warm. Standing there fixing another ripped sidewall. I think it was the cold that turned my mood from having fun to wondering what was the point in being out here at 2 in the morning.

    So far my “fun” score was 98%. But now the tally was racking up “not-fun” points at an alarming rate. By the time I fixed my partners rear tire my “fun” score was 95% and falling fast. That bring me to explain why I was now riding my partners rear wheel. This tiny development occurred two laps earlier.

    The sun had recently set and now I felt I would start to make up the big deficit I had on the front-runners. The first lap of the race I set my pace at what we referred to “inch worm”. I was going so slow the leaders had two laps on me by nightfall. This had put me into fun mode and I just spent the day riding and having fun. My only goal was to catch friends and say hi. But that was about to change. My pace was quickening and I felt like I had not rode at all. I was as fresh as fresh could be. And now was the time to reap the dividends.

    Now dark I felt my rear tire get soft. I was hitting corners harder now and standing on the climbs. The rear of the bike kept swaying to one side. Upon inspection I discovered my rear wheel’s spokes were coming loose and one was broken. When I gingerly regained my pace it went really soft. I now had a flat tire as well. I quickly stuffed a tube in it and started the long decent down the gem trail. Then my rim hit the ground and the tire came off the rim. It seemed that my rear wheel was ka-put.

    I went instantly into DNF mode. I was at the furthest point on the course. I now had to walk holding the rear of the bike off the ground. I really was not pissed as much as mystified. My racing bike which I take great lengths to keeping in tip top shape suddenly was out of commission. My new racing wheels worthless. By the time I got back to the pits I would be so far out of contention that I would just be riding for fun. That is if I could get my bike going again. And now I discovered that walking on the trail with a couple hundred racers zipping down the trail using 2000 lumen lamps was not a good idea. So I walked throughout the cactus and sage. This was not fun. My “fun” score was dropping fast. I started to dream of the upcoming hike. A hike across Zion with my partner and friend. I couldn’t wait.

    Lucky for me I ran into a course marshall with a tube for hire. We worked for some time to get my bike rideable. At one point he mentioned giving me a ride to the dirt road where I could walk back to the pits. Eventually we did get my bike in rideable condition and a fully inflated rear tire. At the pits my partner gave me her rear wheel and sent me on my way. We were still on the “inch-worm” plan and I could still do fine. But for me I had already started dreaming of a future adventure … trans-zion.

    Now a couple of hours after midnight with a borrowed rear wheel I was having fun again and racking up “fun” points. Until I ripped the sidewall of my partners rear tire. And here I was fixing another rear wheel. Riding into the pits again I was totally deflated. No more fun and no more dreams of future adventures. Sleep deprived and freezing I sat in my pit chair making decisions.

    Go back out or just give up the ghost? If I quit now I could say I totally had fun at the Frog Hollow. If I went back out I would probably start suffering in the cold and feel the need to go fast. Didn’t sound like fun anymore. Maybe I was coming up with excuses but to be fresh for Trans Zion is what I settled upon.

    I sat there much to long and needed to get warm. I got up and headed back to the tent.

    “Inch worm FAIL”, I shouted back to my partner.

  • Mount Marcy

    Mount Marcy

    I leave for Frog Hollow in two weeks an I need to plan; I know. But I am stuck in the past. Only because I hate Google and what they have done with Picasa Web Albums. They are holding my photos hostage unless I join Google Plus. Screw you Google. Anyway I am moving photos to Flickr. In doing so I am running across some photos from 2001. This set is important because it influenced so many journeys since then.

  • Frog Hollow next

    Frog Hollow next

    Venu before racers arrive
    Venue before racers arrive

    Jill and I have schemed in secret. Well not really, but we have chatted about meeting up at the 2013 edition of Frog Hollow. This place sits in the shadow of Gooseberry Mesa and Zion National Park just outside the town of Hurricane, Utah.

    Evening at the venue
    Evening at the venue

    This venue is the one and only place I have shared a race with my friend. She on her world travels to do bigger things. Me a lowly Montana 24 hour specialist. I have raced many times but this place turns out where I changed from focused racer to … well … a cuddlier rider.

    Virgin River
    Virgin River

    A couple great blog posts were spun from the first meet-up in 2010. Jill came out of the blocks first to post, surprise, 25 Hours of Frog Hollow. This post is my favorite because it is all about, well, me.  No, actually for the first time I read about myself thorough the eyes of another.  A great read. So I followed up with Showdown in Frogtown 2010, yea, wacky title. Actually one of my better blogs. Nowadays I just write about how I used to write well.

    Bill, Mo, Jill @ Zion 2011
    Bill, Mo, Jill @ Zion 2011

    The following year we not only raced solo together but spent the following days stomping through Zion.  This second year was my favorite race of all time. I posted a tasty little post called 25 Hours of Frog Hollow 2011. A come from behind victory with three days of playtime after. I have not been able to top that since.

    Great view ... YIKES
    Great view … YIKES

    Last year I took leave of this race and have regretted it ever since.  So as soon as the race registration went live I hopped on and signed up. I hope to try to top 2011 by spending a week after playing around in that area.  maybe some Zion trip or even a bike pack in the Mesa. I will lean on the experience of Jill who has trounced through that area many times. So it is off to Hurricane Utah in two weeks.

  • Nutrition and Health

    Nutrition and Health

    Our Feral Feast of Nutrition

    This is my go-to daily pile of information that I want to keep fresh and trustworthy. I’m revisiting each of these resources to make sure they’re still reliable and helpful. Here’s my current list:

    Health and Wellness Resources

    1. Dr. Terry Wahls – terrywahls.com
      Dr. Wahls is a legitimate clinical professor of medicine at the University of Iowa. Her work on using diet and lifestyle to manage multiple sclerosis is based on clinical research, though some of her claims may be considered controversial in mainstream medicine.
    2. Primal Blueprint – Mark’s Daily Apple
      Mark Sisson is a well-known figure in the paleo/primal health community. While his approach is not universally accepted by mainstream medicine, he bases many of his recommendations on evolutionary biology and some scientific research.
    3. Chris Kresser – chriskresser.com
      Kresser is a licensed acupuncturist and practitioner of integrative medicine. He is generally well-regarded in the functional medicine community, though some of his views may differ from conventional medical advice.
    4. Nora Gedgaudas – Primal Body, Primal Mind
      Gedgaudas is a recognized nutritional consultant and author, known for her work in the field of paleo nutrition and brain health. However, some of her claims are viewed skeptically by mainstream health professionals.
    5. Abel James – Fat Burning Man
      Abel James is a health coach and author who promotes a paleo and ketogenic diet for optimal health. He has a popular podcast, though some of his ideas are considered controversial or lacking strong scientific backing.
    6. Phil Maffetone – philmaffetone.com
      Dr. Phil Maffetone is a well-respected coach in endurance sports, emphasizing a holistic approach to training and health. His methods are appreciated by many athletes, though some elements of his low heart rate training may be seen as unconventional.
    7. Sara Gottfried – saragottfriedmd.com
      Dr. Gottfried is a board-certified gynecologist and physician scientist with training from MIT, Harvard, and UCSF. She has published several books and focuses on precision medicine and women’s health.
    8. Ben Greenfield – bengreenfieldfitness.com
      Greenfield is a popular fitness and nutrition author and podcaster. While he has a significant following, some of his claims and recommendations have been criticized as being overly speculative or not well-supported by mainstream science.

    If anyone can find arguments against any of my resources, or if they see outdated or incorrect information, please let me know. I’m committed to providing a balanced and accurate set of resources.

  • 2013 RMVQ part VI

    The finish
    The finish

    Grave Range | Snow Bowl | Sheep | Mit Tower | Alp Turah | University

    University With a Little Help From Friends

    If anyone has ever done ultra distance events. Not saying that I do anything compared to the average Jill Homer. My ultras are short. But nonetheless I still get that “why did I leave the comfort of an aid station so quickly” feeling. When I reach another aid station (pit in 24 solo racing speak) I do everything possible to get in and out quickly. Then 5 minutes later wish I had stuck around.

    The 2013 RMVQ for me was doing it unsupported. So then maybe I am disqualified now. I received 3 rear window baked pickles and three packets of 5-year-old honey in the parking lot.

     

    As I left Pattee Canyon I felt like I did not stop long enough. I should have savored the rest and the company. The hardened honey blob from a packet rattled around in my water bottle as I pedaled up the University Climb.

    The last conversation I had with that unsupported racer helper person was how long this was going to take. It was suggested three hours. But in a fit of optimism I put one hour out there.  It was ludicrous just to hear myself say it.

    Last Marcy posting on University Mountain
    Last Marcy posting on University Mountain

    I was posting the last Marcy photo within an hour after leaving the parking lot. I do not know what got into me. Sometimes Marcy visits me and I get this surge of energy from somewhere. Her spirit lifting me from a broken human. I paused a little longer at the photo being held down by a couple rocks. My eyes fell upon the earth to see remnants … still …of her ashes.

    “Thanks … for everything”, I said touching the rock with my hand. I covered the remaining ashes with a rock and jumped on my bike to ride into town. I have been here before. Finishing the RMVQ. This one was one of the hardest.

    My phone rang and I for some reason I answered it.

    “Hello … um I am like riding down University headwall now”, I explained in a frantic voice; now on the most dangerous part of the entire loop.

    “Bill … its Julie, where are you”, came a voice.

    By the time I crossed the finish line I had been joined by Julie Huck, Mo, and Ed Stalling. Good friends. I greeted each one with a hung and some sort of explanation on how hard I had tried to get to the finish. I heard stories of Julie and others frantically calling back and forth to get a status. Ed wishing he could join me in Turah.

    Reaching the end should have never been so dramatic. And on the surface it wasn’t. Inside … I couldn’t believe I had done it. Even though everyone surrounding me had total faith.  I must have looked totally together and coherent. But I wasn’t. For the last 20 hours I couldn’t envision how I could finish. I almost froze to death. I had no water. I became disheveled. Quitting was always a consideration.

    Now I was surrounded by friends .. congratulating me actually. So good to see my friends. I suppose I was never really alone out there.

  • 2013 RMVQ part V

    Tura General Store
    Turah General Store

    Grave Range | Snow Bowl | Sheep | Mit Tower | Alp Turah | University

    AlpDeTurah

    The climb out of Turah is almost 3,000 feet in only 10 miles. And without water or friendship really does not top my list of favorite rides. At mile 126 of the RMVQ I sat beside the Clark Fork and contemplated quitting. Yes, again. I decided to weigh the pros and cons.

    Pros were that I could complete the RMVQ and garner the accolades of all friends and family. That kind of fame is nothing to shake a stick at. Another element to consider is that to call in the troops to rescue me meant that my partner might miss her race. And related to that, if I hurry, I could come out at Pattee Canyon just as she was nearing the finish line.

    The Cons were that I was going alone which any other time would be perfectly ok. But this time I really had hopes to see a friendly face. 3,000 feet of climbing is another Con I guess.

    The more my butter coffee crossed the blood-brain barrier the more I could not come up with any reason I should quit now. Riding up this monster seemed perfectly doable and in an insane glimpse of optimism … could be FUN.

    So I rode it. And it took a while. So long in fact that I was no where close to making Pattee Canyon for my partners race. So long that my partner finished her race and was able to go looking for me. Unsuccessful she went back to town and got the car.

    Meanwhile I was out there riding. Not only up the climb but then also the traverse from Miller Peak to Pattee Canyon. And I did it without feeling well. Without taking photos or twittering. Just a zombie biker looking to find the path to another world. I was in a bad place.

    I found her in the parking lot reading her book. As I approached the driver’s side door I could see she was already well over half way through a new book. I wondered how long she had waited. She spotted my shadow and jumped from the car to greet me.

    I walked over to some shade and sat down. If no one was going to ride the last leg with me I saw no reason to continue.  Again looking for a reason to quit. This year’s motto is “the quitter”. I don’t care though. I was in a bad place.

    “Do you have ANY food with you”, I asked.

    “No … I didn’t think you were eating normal food”

    “I don’t think I want to finish this year”, I grumbled then looked up to see her looking up towards University Moutnain.

    “But, it is right … your close … but I understand”, she looked concerned. “Oh WAIT! Don’t we have those leftover pickles somewhere?  And I think I have some honey in the jockey box …”

     

  • 2013 RMVQ part IV

    Crossing the swinging bridge

    Grave Range | Snow Bowl | Sheep | Mit Tower | Alp Turah | University

    MitTower Climb to Turah

    I sat up in my bivvy many times throughout the night. Almost once every hour. Every time I took notice how beautiful the view was. I mean I could see the city lights and knew I was close to town. But each time I also took stock in the situation and it was not impressive. My legs were still frozen and as soon as I awoke I started to shiver. It is like I woke up to shiver to generate some much-needed heat. Then I would pass out again.

    I awoke to a beautiful morning on top of a ridge outside of Missoula. I stood up and to my amazement I felt my feet. I was entirely thawed out.  It was 6 am and from what I remember from the forecast today was going to be super nice day. My plan was to ride into town and quit this year’s RMVQ … but that feeling started to fade.

    Morning sun on Jumbo Saddle
    Morning sun on Jumbo Saddle

    I rode out and on Jumbo Saddle to declare, at least to myself, that I was not quitting. I made my way over to MitTower and started up the climb. I needed water so I stopped at a creek. Then it came back to me … my water filter was broke. I figured that if I could get to the Turah General Store I could restock the good ol-fashion bike-packing way. I started to dream of the perfect breakfast.

    But all this took back seat to the real reason I wanted to get to Turah. As soon as possible. I knew that if I did make it there I would have a friend to ride AlpDeTurah with.  I was hoping my friend Ed would be waiting there. I sure needed a friend after almost freezing to death the night before. I could see him standing with that amazed grin, relishing in the entire sortie.

    Marcy posting on top of Mit Tower
    Marcy posting on top of Mit Tower

    The climb did take a little while but only because I decided to save energy, keep my heart rate at 133, and walk all the climbs.  Actually it seemed like forever but eventually I reached the top where I posted a Marcy photo. Almost to Turah I thought to myself.

    Dropping down into Bonner
    Dropping down into Bonner

    The rest of the trip was pretty exiting… well except for the road-ride from Bonner to Turah. The route features a huge bomber downhill and a swinging bridge. All the while dreaming of my entrance to Turah. My friend waiting … with some sort of bacon breakfast. Smiling and waiting for me. It would be glorious.

    I finally did arrive but not until noon. And my dreams of meeting up with a friend to ride with faded into a dizzy glare. Thoughts of breakfast long gone. It had been over 15 hours since I had taken in water or eaten.  I had climbed over a snow-covered peak. I was delirious. I needed saved.

    I stumbled into the Turah General Store and announced that I had ridden over a hundred miles and wanted to buy some water, borrow a cup, and needed to use the microwave to make some butter coffee.

  • 2013 RMVQ part III

    Ted misses a turn
    The turn to Sheep Mountain

    Grave Range | Snow Bowl | Sheep | Mit Tower | Alp Turah | University

    The Sheep Mountain Traverse

    “You know you could lose your life up there”, I glanced up towards Sheep Mountain.

    “I know, I am prepared, have everything in my back pack” … “I am ready to spend the night if I have to”, Ted replied back.

    I tried every warning I could think of because I felt that Ted did not totally grasp what we were about to undertake. It is not that I did not think he could do it. In fact I didn’t even know anything about his abilities.  All I knew is that he signed up for this leg and was determined to do it.

    I needed to prepare for battle so I turned my gaze forward and rode my pace; trying to do math. To decide at what point I needed to put my lightening system on. Soon I was at the turn to start the climb. I waited a bit but Ted was no where in sight. I started hoping that he was going to be OK.

    Things changed so fast for me that I felt I had been lured into a bad situation. Worst case scenario I would walk the entire climb and come down the other side of Sheep around 4 hours later … worst case. Right?

    Now 3 full hours later I was still 2,000 feet below the summit. The snow had become deep. I could not push the bike because it was heavy enough to fall through the crust. And the crust-snow combination had become to hard for me to lean into.

    I picked up my front wheel and lurched forward gaining about two feet at a time. But this only lasted another hour. I was now about 200 feet below the summit. I was now exposed and the winds were gusting pretty heavy. My sweat drenched body froze and I felt the clothes become stiff. This added to the effort needed to keep going. I should have turned around. All I needed was a burst to get over the top.

    A half hour later, a full 4.5 hours from the turn, I was about to stumble over the top of Sheep Mountain. I looked back one last time to the dark valley below. I could see a tiny red light and fell to my knees. I shouted in hopes that some of the words would become a reality.

    “Please … please turn back, if that is you, Ted … turn back”

    Marcy posting on Sheep Mountain
    Marcy posting on Sheep Mountain

    I made no attempts at finding Marcy’s bones that I had hidden three years earlier. It was all I could do to dig out and find a stump near the top of the mountain. With numb fingers I posted a card and stumbled back down to my bike.

    The bike was so hard to pull out of its newly formed drift. Like the mountain wanted to keep it. I could leave it and scamper to safety. I wonder how long it would take to hike back to town. I would warm up too … maybe another 4 to 5 hours? Maybe?

    I only took the bike because I had hopes of riding it from Wishard Ridge down to the waiting arms of the Missoula Valley. It would be way faster than hiking. It wasn’t though … because the snow did not stop at Wishard Ridge.

    After two extra hours hiking to a place where I could mount my bike I was drenched in sweat. Also I and had dipped into 5 hours of anaerobic energy. I was fat adapted and relying on a slower fat burning pace and now I was probably devouring muscle, and tissue for fuel.

    Now just below Blue Point I straddled my bike ready for the decent. Within 5 minutes I was laying back on the frozen earth. My body as solid as a statue from frozen sweaty clothes. A frozen sweaty clothes coffin I imagined. Lucky for me my fall off the bike had broken stuff loose and a trickle of blood on my arm signified that my blood was indeed still flowing.

    I had fallen because I could not ride my bike. So now what? I had to hike out. I used my bike to lean against and started down the trail. I was too cold to continue. Somewhere under a tree I bivvied out. I don’t remember falling asleep or even wondering if I was in danger. I just don’t remember anything except pulling that bivvy out of my seat bag.

  • 2013 RMVQ part II

    Myself, Laurie, and Aaron at Kona Bridge

    Grave Range | Snow Bowl | Sheep | Mit Tower | Alp Turah | University

    Snow Bowl to Rattlesnake

    “Anyone want any coffee”, Norman announced.

    “I DO”, I bellowed out so urgently it cause everyone to look in my direction.

    I proceeded to tear into my frame bag and produce a tube of butter and a vial of MCT oil. I then continued to chop off a hunk of butter and put it into my mouth. Then I squeezed in a big squirt of MCT oil.  Followed by a cup of coffee from Norman’s thermos. Everyone looked on in horror.

    To take the focus from my interesting caloric intake I proposed the statement, “Ah … the RMVQ Snow Bowl climb … it is where everyone cracks.”

    “Really? Why?”

    “You will see, I usually start to feel bad there too”

    “Weird, I wonder why”, Ed sounded disbelieving.

    Ed makes the Snow Bowl A-Frame
    Ed makes the Snow Bowl A-Frame

    Aaron busted up the Snow Bowl climb first and I expected Ed to go with him. but instead we found ourselves riding together most of the time with Laurie just behind. Behind us was Norman on his pace. It was a fabulous climb and soon enough we started collecting at the a-frame.

    Norman arrives at Snow Bowl [photo by norman]
    Norman arrives at Snow Bowl
    The troops looked a little rattled and Ed admitted that maybe the climb was a little longer then he expected. Even Aaron who looked fresh all day started to have a little color to his face.  Norman looked a bit desperate as he approached the top.

    Marcy posting at Snow Bowl
    Marcy posting at Snow Bowl

    But me, I felt fine. I quickly posted a Marcy pic and prepared to rip down the Beargrass Highway. My diet of “not much” and pace really was paying dividends. And I felt extremely excited and happy to have such great friends to play with.  I set off wailing, “WAHOOOOO” and bombed down the single-track track.

    Message for Norman on Marcy posting #3
    Message for Norman on Marcy posting #3

    Aaron did catch me taking a break and we rode to the Rattlesnake trailhead together.  It was the end of his ride, quite large indeed. This section of RMVQ he did with us was 72 miles but he also rode from home before that. I wondered if maybe this was like mile 80 for him. A big endeavor … and such a strong ride too.

    Julie Huck throws a great halfway party
    Julie Huck throws a great halfway party

    Everyone else trickled in as I took part in the Halfway BBQ festivities.  Ed had torn away from the pack before the Ravine Trail to get to his second gig, playing jazz drum at a winery. How on earth does one pull that off? Ed does.

    Laurie came riding into the party moments after Aaron and I. She had the biggest grin and opened her arms for a bug hug. Her day done as well ticking out over 40 miles. Of course that does not include the extra mileage that she and Ed rode to Kona Bridge.  My friends, carrying on the “go big” tradition.

    “Thank you so much Bill”, she whispered in my ear. And I know what she meant.  These are the moments that I ride for. It was the end of the day for everyone and I felt my soul go cold. From here on out it was just myself versus Sheep Mountain.

    Hula Hoop Party
    Hula Hoop Contest

    Norman come into the party as I took part in the annual hula-hoop contest. I can hoop, yes, indeed. But I am not as good as Julie and Lydia. Who took center “parking lot” to do hula-battle.  I think a tie, hard to tell.

    “It was good to spend the day with you”, he said. Norman, also with that look in his eye.  Gosh, it was nice riding with my Missoula family again. I set off to the cheers and left everyone behind.

    “I am coming for you”, I said under my breath and looked into the direction of Sheep Mountain.

  • 2013 RMVQ part I

    Aaron Baldwing staying warm at the start

    Grave Range | Snow Bowl | Sheep | Mit Tower | Alp Turah | University

    Grave Range Growler

    I borrowed my partners car to get my bike and self to the start. Destination Blue Mountain Recreation Area parking lot. It was 5:45 AM when I rolled in. Disappointment settled in seeing that no one was around. I mean usually no one in their right mind would be out there at 6 in the morning. But today Norman and I planned to start the RMVQ together. And if he was a no-show, I understood. Or anyone for that matter. The RMVQ itself is an insane idea.  But to me it is my yearly quest to reconnect one last time with the area before it gets covered with snow.  As I Steeped out of the car I saw some headlights coming at me.

    “Hi Norman”, my spirits set back to optimal optimism. I felt I needed company for this year’s installment. I did not want to do it. Felt that I could not do it. But was just there to see if my new lifestyle change would allow me to enjoy 24 hours of just plain riding the toughest loop on the planet.

    I did not hear any response …, “Norman?”

    As he turned the light to the side it was not Norman at all. It was Aaron. It was like we stepped back in time to a year ago while riding the Fitzy Barn. Specifically just topping out on Bannock Pass during the night.

    Then a car pulled in and out stepped Norman. And then another car … what the heck? At 6 in the morning Norman, Aaron, and I headed up Blue Mountain. There were instances of being slightly off course. I enjoyed slivers of time when I actually rode with my adventure partners but we all had our own pace. Norman seemed to be the most cautious, which comes with being a veteran. Aaron had all the energy and found himself off the front. Me I was sticking to 133 beats per minute.

    Blue Mountain Fire Tower Posting (CP1)

    The sun came out in a glorious display of color and warmth.  When we left the cars it was in the 20s and frost covered our bikes. Then when we all crested the mountain and pulled up to the fire tower we basked in the warming rays.  The day was certainly underway. Arron and I bombed off the top of Blue mountain first.

    I saw Aaron maybe twice after that.  Then Norman happened by on top of the first “Bastard”, once named “Bitch” until questioned by “someone” on what that meant. The three bastards are three really challenging hill climbs that usually include licking the handlebar for nutrition.

    Norman on Telephone Butte

    Norman and I jockeyed back and forth until the big downhill into Dry Gulch. I use downhills to gain distance lost due to insane slowness on the climbs. At the bottom … Ed, Laurie, and Aaron. We all gathered at the Kona Bridge and got ready for our assault on the Snow Bowl A Frame. A band of 3 turns into a band of 5. I truly love it when the RMVQ brings us together.

  • Poem …o/o

    Roses are red, and violets are blue.
    What I hate more then anything, is words that do not accrue.
    I had a bunch, … before lunch.
    But organizing it into coherence, was a bother.
    And now out of time, I hear the chime.
    See you all later, in another slice of time.
    The skies will be blue, and the blog will be red.

  • 2013 RMVQ Results

    RMVQ Main Page  | History GC

    This slideshow requires JavaScript.

     

    Summary

    Distance: 157.59 mi
    Time: 36:26:23
    Avg Speed: 4.3 mph
    Elevation Gain: 31,093 ft

    Stats

    1. Bill Martin – 157.59 miles in 36:26:23 [Blue Mountain to Maurice and South]
    2. Aaron Baldwin – 72+ miles in 10:45 [Blue Mountain to Rattlesnake] *Started at home
    3. Norman Singley – 72 miles in 11:ish [Blue Mountain to Rattlesnake]
    4. Ed Stalling – 40+ miles in 7:ish [Kona Bridge to Snow Bowl AFrame then home] *Started at home
    5. Laurie Stalling – 40+ miles in 7:ish [Kona Bridge to Rattlesnake] *Started at home
    6. Ted Toporkov – 31.7 miles in 4:39[Rattlesnake and back] *Mechanical
    7. Julie Huck – 4ish miles [Treasure Trail to Finish] *Rode from home
    8. Mo Mislivets – 4ish miles [Rattlesnake loop and MoZ finish]

    Special thanks to everyone who came out to the halfway party, cooked great grub,  and hula hooped with us. Blog you later …o/o